What Is Salicylic Acid? How to Use It for Blackheads and Oily Skin

What is salicylic acid? It is an exfoliant known in skincare as a BHA (beta hydroxy acid) that can dissolve in oil. That property means it doesn't stay on the skin's surface; it can also reach the mix of oil and dead cells inside pores. That is why it is a popular choice for blackheads and for oily, breakout-prone skin.

What is salicylic acid? Why oil solubility sets BHA apart

Salicylic acid takes its name from Salix, the Latin name for the willow tree; salicin, found in willow bark, is one of its natural precursors. In skincare, it is known as a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and is the best-known member of this group. Its chemical structure differs from that of AHAs, and this difference defines its most important property: salicylic acid can dissolve in oil, which means it is lipophilic.

Water-soluble AHAs such as glycolic acid work mainly on the skin's surface. Salicylic acid, on the other hand, can mix with sebum, so it more easily reaches the oily environment inside the pore opening. Research describes salicylic acid as helping skin shed by loosening the connections between cells (a desmolytic effect) and loosening buildup inside pores (a comedolytic property). We cover the other half of this comparison in what is glycolic acid.

How do blackheads form?

Every pore is linked to a hair follicle and an oil gland. The sebum the gland produces travels up through the pore to the surface. When cells shed from the inner lining of the pore mix with sebum and can't clear properly, a plug forms at the pore opening. If the opening stays open, it is called a blackhead (open comedone); if it is closed, it is a whitehead (closed comedone).

A blackhead's dark color doesn't come from dirt. It is often attributed to the contents oxidizing on contact with air, while dermatology sources emphasize that the color comes from pigment (melanin) at the surface of the plug. The practical takeaway: a blackhead isn't dirt you can scrub away. Harsh scrubbing irritates the skin, and squeezing or picking can increase the risk of scarring and dark spots.

Blackheads show up most often on the nose, forehead and chin, where oil glands are concentrated. We explain why pores look more noticeable in these areas in can you really shrink your pores.

What salicylic acid does and doesn't do in pores

Thanks to its ability to dissolve in oil, salicylic acid reaches the mix of sebum and dead cells inside pores and helps loosen that buildup. The result is pores that look clearer and skin that looks smoother.

It is just as important to be clear about its limits. Pore size depends largely on genetics, oil production and skin firmness; salicylic acid doesn't change the actual size of your pores. Because pores keep producing oil, it is also natural for blackheads to come back. That is why regular, measured care makes more sense than occasional intensive sessions.

Oily and breakout-prone skin: The limits of cosmetic care

With oily skin, the goal isn't to get rid of oil completely but to keep it in balance. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends cleansing gently up to twice a day, avoiding harsh scrubbing and alcohol-based cleansers, not skipping moisturizer and choosing one that also contains broad-spectrum sunscreen. It adds that ingredients such as salicylic acid, glycolic acid and lactic acid can help reduce oiliness but may be too harsh for some skin, and that you should use the product less often or stop if your skin becomes irritated.

With breakout-prone skin, it helps to know where cosmetic care ends and a doctor's plan begins. Salicylic acid is among the topical ingredients studied for acne, but a comprehensive Cochrane review of trials comparing these ingredients found that most of the evidence was of low or very low certainty. In other words, a toner or serum is no substitute for the options a doctor can recommend.

If you use a prescription acne product, check with your doctor before adding a new acid product to your routine. The AAD advises avoiding toners and exfoliants that can irritate the skin while you follow a doctor-recommended acne plan. Red, painful, widespread or scarring breakouts call for an evaluation by a dermatologist.

Limits on salicylic acid in cosmetics: What does the regulation say?

In Turkey, cosmetic products are subject to the Cosmetic Products Regulation, which was drafted with the EU's Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 in mind. The regulation's annex of restricted substances (Annex III) sets the following maximum levels for salicylic acid:

• Rinse-off hair products: up to 3.0%.
• Other products: up to 2.0% in products other than body lotion, eye shadow, mascara, eyeliner, lipstick and roll-on deodorant.
• Body lotion, eye shadow, mascara, eyeliner, lipstick and roll-on deodorant: up to 0.5%.

Under Annex III, salicylic acid must not be used in products intended for children under three in any of these three groups, nor in oral care products or in applications that could expose the end user's lungs by inhalation. The regulation states that these levels apply to every use of salicylic acid. These figures are general regulatory information; they do not represent the concentration of any VORELL product.

How to use salicylic acid

The key principle when adding a salicylic acid product to your routine is to be consistent without pushing your skin too hard.

1. Apply to clean skin: Use it after gentle cleansing; an acid toner doesn't replace the cleansing step.
2. Patch test first: Before your first full use, try it on a small area and watch how your skin reacts.
3. Choose the evening: Especially if the product also contains an AHA, evening use reduces sun exposure after application.
4. Build up gradually: If dryness, stinging or redness increases, cut back or take a break; be more cautious on dry and sensitive areas.
5. Don't scrub or squeeze: Instead of scrubbing or squeezing blackheads, give regular care time to work.
6. Hydrate and protect: Follow with a light hydration step, and use a broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning.

Salicylic acid in Water Glow Tonic

Water Glow Tonic is the first step of the Glow series, and it combines salicylic acid (BHA) with glycolic acid (AHA). Salicylic acid works into pores to help clarify their look, while glycolic acid helps dead cells on the surface shed. The toner was developed with oily and combination skin, and skin with noticeable pores, in mind. We cover using the two acids together in detail in our AHA and BHA guide.

Alongside the acids, Hyaluronic Acid, Aloe Vera, Panthenol, Betaine and Allantoin help the toner clarify without tiring the skin, while Hibiscus Extract helps skin look fresh and vibrant. The toner is alcohol-free. After cleansing, spritz it two or three times onto a cotton pad, gently sweep it over clean skin and don't rinse.

It is best used in the evening; if you use it during the day, sunscreen is a must. Don't apply it to irritated or damaged skin, test it on a small area the first time, and stop using it if redness or irritation occurs. Once your skin has dried, you can move on to the hydration step with Water Glow Serum. Water Glow Tonic is not an acne product and is no substitute for care recommended by a doctor.

An alcohol-free AHA/BHA toner for clearer-looking pores and smoother texture: Explore Water Glow Tonic

Frequently asked questions

Does salicylic acid get rid of blackheads completely?

No. Salicylic acid can help loosen buildup inside pores and make blackheads less noticeable, but because pores keep producing oil, blackheads can come back. Regular, measured care and avoiding harsh scrubbing are the most realistic approach.

Can I use salicylic acid on dry skin?

You can, but with more caution. Salicylic acid can cause dryness and irritation in some people. If your skin is dry or easily sensitized, start slowly and always follow with moisturizer; if dryness or redness increases, cut back or stop.

Does salicylic acid make skin sensitive to the sun?

In a small, short-term study we describe in our glycolic acid article, salicylic acid, unlike glycolic acid, did not significantly change the sun sensitivity markers measured. Still, many products combine salicylic acid with an AHA, so use sunscreen during the day while you use them.

Can I use salicylic acid during pregnancy?

If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, check with your doctor before starting or continuing any product that contains acids, including salicylic acid. That decision should be based on your personal health situation.

Is it bad to squeeze blackheads?

Squeezing, picking and digging irritate the skin; the AAD notes that popping breakouts can increase the risk of scarring and dark spots. Regular, gentle care is a safer route for blackheads; for stubborn or widespread breakouts, see a dermatologist.

Sources

1. Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015.
2. Liu H, et al. Topical azelaic acid, salicylic acid, nicotinamide, sulphur, zinc and fruit acid (alpha-hydroxy acid) for acne. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2020.
3. DermNet. Comedonal acne.
4. American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). How to control oily skin.
5. American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). Acne: Tips for managing.
6. Kozmetik Ürünler Yönetmeliği. Resmî Gazete, 8 Mayıs 2023, Sayı 32184 (Mükerrer); Ek III.

This article is for general information only and is not a substitute for medical diagnosis or treatment. If you have a persistent skin concern, consult a dermatologist.